Before starting our last day of exploring Athens, we stopped by the train station to secure a sleeper cabin on a night train to Sofia, Bulgaria. The train station seemed to be extremely busy but we actually found the international travel desk to be wide open. We were disappointed to learn that the train was completely booked (and yes, we should have learned our lesson from the other two times night travel has been completely sold out on us). Without many options, we bought seats on an earlier train to Thessaloniki, Greece where we’d have a seven hour layover before continuing on to Sofia.
Several hours later, we returned to the busy station for our evening train. We again noted how every inch of the small station was filled with people but didn’t think too much of it as we boarded and took our seats. We found the train to also be quite full as we settled in our assigned seats in a cabin with four others. Because of our interesting travel night, we planned on drinking a beer then trying to sleep most of the ride north. Unfortunately, the group seated in our cabin seemed to be having a family reunion which prevented any hope of catching zzz’s. It was mostly the one woman telling story after story but they all seemed equally engaged. At one point, she took a break from the Greek stories and asked us where we were from, where we were traveling to and how long we’ve been in Greece. She then proceeded to talk in Greek to the rest of the group referencing our situation. I kept waiting to be brought back into the conversation with more questions in English but they eventually moved on to other topics. About five hours into the ride with less than an hour to go, one of our Greek cabin mates said goodbyes as he exited at an earlier stop – that’s when we realized the group had just met each other! Wow the Greek are outgoing!
After a restless journey, we arrived into Thessaloniki, Greece just before midnight. We had looked into the possibility of getting a hotel but nothing was cheap enough or close enough so we settled on trying to sleep at the station. Although the station was slightly bigger then Athens, it still did not have much. There were about five empty platforms, ten deserted ticket counters, and there was one small lobby with all passengers quickly exiting to the city. Will and I walked in circles trying and find a waiting room or even an inviting corner but nothing stood out. We spotted some comfortable seating for a small market in the station so reasoned a couple of beers would help us claim a table. As we sipped the beers pondering our next move, we got lost in the American TV shows playing overhead while watching a handful of other people hangout outside the station.
We decided to look for a dark corner once again and headed towards the lobby. Now going on 1:00 am, the station was completely dark with only the small market showing signs of life. As soon as we stepped in the lobby, a man called out from the darkness informing us that the station was closed for the night. We noticed that all the doors from the lobby to the city were closed and we could see people lining them just outside getting settled in for the night. With every corner of the lobby entrance claimed, we headed back to the comfortable seats at our table in the market.
As soon as the station closed, commotion around the market had settled but there were still a few questionably homeless people hanging around. Will and I decided it was best to stay alert while waiting through our layover. We watched TV, played games, and discussed breakfast options for hours.
Just before sunrise, we started to hear more voices and noticed that the lobby doors were open. Everyone that was sleeping at the doors was awake and gathering their belongings. Then, large groups walked past headed towards something adjacent to the station. Will and I joked that the groups dressed in traditional Muslim attire were going to morning prayer. When the groups returned less than and hour later, we figured we must have been correct. We noticed the same groups of people hanging around the station again several hours later because they seemed like they had no where to go. Looking back at it, we must have spent the night amongst Syrian refugees.
As our 6:55 am departure slowly approached, we moved to the platform anxious to board the train. Unfortunately, it was delayed getting into the station. When it finally arrived a few minutes after 7:00, we searched for the car listed on our seat reservation. Nothing listed on the train matched so we asked an employee who just pointed towards the back of the train. At the last car, another employee told Will we would be on the car further down the track that was not actually attached. Unsure, we hesitantly walked down with a handful of other travelers. I couldn’t help but laugh when I noticed the train car was parked on tracks covered with weeds and wild flowers – they couldn’t possibly be serious!?
After being up all night, Will and I were not our sharpest and we were questioning where to go. I’m sure we looked lost wondering between the detached train cars and regular line. Another employee eventually clarified that they wanted us to wait on the platform as they finished servicing the train. We watched the cleaners move up the cars. Then, the they cleared everyone as the train backed up to meet with the detached cars. After the train again pulled forward (and out of the weeds), the conductor finally welcomed up onboard adding that we could ignore our assigned seats and sit wherever we wanted.
Will and I found a nice cabin with air conditioning, dark window curtains, and reclining seats. The train finally left Thessaloniki almost two hours late. We proceeded to sleep the entire seven hour journey to Sofia, Bulgaria.
